July 14, 2004
Colorado Wildflowers and Nagano Calling
Yesterday, I was sitting in a car driving across Colorado. Looking out the window, I was amazed at the broad expanse from horizon to horizon: rolling green hills, scattered farmlands, empty places and mountains beyond. We drove to Purgatory -- that's a ski resort above Durango, Colorado. Our family friends have a condo that they generously share. Today, my wife and I woke up at 6:30am, left the kids with my parents, drove about 10 miles up the road toward Silverton, and started hiking uphill. After about 3 hours, we came to Crater Lake, which sits at about 12,000 feet. I took loads of pictures (see above). We tried our luck fly fishing, and then we hiked down the mountain. We didn't catch any fish, but at the small lake where we parked the car a guy and his kids were just wrapping up a day of fishing. They had an overabundance of trout (about 25), and he gave us four, which was great because I'd promised that we'd be eating fish for dinner. So now I'm full of food, exhausted, and ready for a deep, deep sleep. And for me, I love this. Even the pain I'm in; it's great. Much better than watching DVD's on TV or going shopping in a mall. Tomorrow we'll head into Durango for a walk on Main Street, a stop at the local coffee shop that we started going to more than a decade ago, more fishing (the Animas River right in town is supposed to be good), a stop at Carver's sandwhich shop and brewery, and perhaps rafting (also on the Animas). Then we'll return to Purgatory (you know, the place we're staying), and I'll take my daughter out to try and catch her first fish.I'm drinking it all in. We've been looking forward to this trip for about a year. It's a chance to do things that we "can't" do in Japan. "Can't" is an exaggeration, but it's certainly difficult for us to enjoy the outdoors from our home in Japan. It's not all Japan's fault. Three kids change your life quite a bit. Plus, we're living in Tokyo, not Hokkaido or Nagano. Like most really big cities, Tokyo is not the greatest place for someone who loves the outdoors. Then again, we're surpisingly close to the mountains. In fact, we're just a 2 hour drive from Nagano, the gateway to the "Japanese Alps." So today, as we were walking along, my wife said something like: "When we get back to Japan we need to keep doing things like this somehow." Maybe that was wishful thinking, or altitude sickness. She was barely hobbling along at that point and perhaps fantasizing. But seriously, I was thinking the same thing. Get on the train. Get in the car. Take the kids up and teach them how to sleep in a tent and rough it a little; with no Onsen; no big tray of food with 16 little items on it waiting at breakfast. Those trays are nice, by the way. I eat all that stuff right up.
I am a bit perplexed by the reputation that the Japanese have for loving nature. Personally, loving nature -- to me -- means getting out there in the middle of it. Not to mention getting dirty with fish slime on your hand (for 2 or 3 days) and blood on your knees from scraping through the brush. Rather, for a country of nature lovers, the Japanese have an odd way of damming rivers and an obsession with concrete, and commercial ventures (hotels, vending machines, tourist stands) right in the places where I'd prefer civilization to stop. I thought about reflecting on these things more, but honestly I wouldn't get far. I don't understand it, and I haven't been in Japan long enough or far enough AWAY from Tokyo to know if these things are the really deeply embedded or not.
I want to say a few positive things though. First, we're really fortunate to live so close to Nagano. We can also hop on a train that goes to nearby mountains with decent hiking and backpacking potential. It's expensive to travel (toll roads and train fares add up quickly), but it's not bad considering the cost of everything else. It's much cheaper than taking the family to an Onsen, for example. Second, my Japanese friend and conversation partner also likes hiking and camping, and we've talked about going into the mountains together. What an opportunity. Although he just told me he landed a full time job... Oh, well. (Congratulations!) Third, we have a fly fishing club ("circle") right in our city. I met some of those guys, and I imagine they'd let me join, at least until I hook somebody in the ear. Fourth, and finally, our kids are getting bigger (kids do that!). So I won't have this excuse of being tied down forever. Whew.
In my last couple of posts I've asked for feedback, and the comments people have left are great. Thanks. It's very easy to leave a comment, by the way. You don't have to "sign up" or give your email address. Please leave a few words if you know anything about getting out into nature in Japan, or to say whatever comes to mind. Hey, whadaya think about Lance's chance in the Tour?? You know.
To see more of these pictures CLICK HERE for my Colorado Gallery.
Posted by jw at July 14, 2004 04:25 AMYou want a, "few words if you know anything about getting out into nature in Japan."
Sheeeee-it, there is no nature in Japan.
Oh course, I revel in the concrete splendor here. Once I remember going on a 20-minute sermon to my dad about Japan?s stated National Goal to place concrete on 100% of its coastline for "Stabilization."
My father, a ferroconcrete architect, deadpanned that, ?Sounds like a lot Jap kids eat concrete, like you.?
------------
The most telling comment I've heard was on the blog of threeshadesofblue:
"What happened to the Japanese reverence for nature? I asked a young Kyoto law student who was part of a group of environmental activists. Did population growth erode traditional values? ?We Japanese revere beauty, but we have no concept of ugliness,? he offered.'
http:
//threeshadesofblue.blogspot.com/2004/07/first-things-first.html#comments
Is he the Furita you are talking about.
Posted by: Jay at July 15, 2004 09:34 AMTo the first commenter, you are saying directly what many people think and feel. There is lots of "nature" in Japan. Unfortunately, most of that nature that I've seen is fenced, potted, built on, or "protected" by concrete, wood or steel. I'm hopeful that I'll find exceptions -- even near to Tokyo.
I read a webpage by a Canadian once who compared his home (near Odawara) to living in Canada. He said he can get out into the woods and mountains easily from there. I'd say that area is still not untouched nature, but I like it and wish I could get there more easily (it's on the opposite side of Tokyo from where I live now). I've climbed Mt Kintoki (Kintokisan) twice, and eaten noodles at the little hut on top. I have been hiking near Odawara and seen some nice country there. I've also been walking through apricot orchards on the mountain sides, which is pretty good escape. There is some potential "wilderness" I've seen on the drive up to Hakone. Very wild looking country with no hiking trails that I saw.
To the second commenter, No. Actually my friend is now working a full time job. By the way, be careful about how you use the word "furita." It's not something to throw around glibly, or you're going to end up offending people.
Posted by: Andy at July 16, 2004 02:55 AM





